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Embroidery·8 min read·By the Brode team

Underlay, Satin, Tatami: Understanding Machine Embroidery Stitches

Underlay, satin columns, tatami fills: what each stitch is for and how density and angle shape the look of your embroidery files.

Embroidery stitch anatomy diagram: sparse underlay, tight satin column, angled tatami fill

When you open an embroidery file in viewer software, you discover that "filling a shape" isn't done in one pass. This glossary explains the three stitch families every embroiderer should know — underlay, satin, tatami — and how to recognize them in a well-made file.

Underlay: the design's foundation

Underlay is a sparse network of stitches sewn BEFORE the visible fill. Its job: anchor the fabric to the stabilizer, pad the shape, and push down fabric nap (fleece, velvet) so the top layer stays crisp. Without underlay, satins sink, fills pucker and edges bleed.

Satin (column): crisp edges

The satin stitch — really a very tight zigzag — is the backbone of lettering and outlines. Its width (typically 2–6 mm) determines everything: too narrow and the satin degenerates into a running stitch; too wide and the stitches lie flat and snag. Standard density sits between 0.3 and 0.4 mm between penetrations, tuned to thread and fabric.

Tatami (fill): covering surfaces

For surfaces wider than 6 mm, you use rows of parallel stitches — the fill or tatami — angled (often 45° or 125°) to catch the light. Alternating rows in slight offset prevent a gutter effect. On very large surfaces, cross-hatch (a double crossed layer) stabilizes the fill and prevents sagging.

How to recognize a well-built file

Brode applies all of these rules automatically in its conversions: systematic underlay, satin on narrow areas, angled tatami with optional cross-hatch on large surfaces, and true geometric hole resolution. The stitch rendering can be previewed right in the browser before running the machine — for the full process, see converting a PNG to DST.

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